Houseboats, Sausalito, California, USA

June 23, 26

Just north of Sausalito, across the Golden Gate Bridge from San Francisco, are about 500 houseboats lining about ten docks. Each home is individually designed, so no two are exactly alike. The community traces its roots back more than a century, but it really flourished after World War II. When the nearby Marinship shipyards closed, surplus barges, ferries, and workboats were left behind. Artists, boat builders, and free spirits converted them into homes.  

During the 1960s and 1970s, the docks became famous as a haven for painters, musicians, writers, and counterculture figures. People built remarkably imaginative homes from recycled materials, creating an eclectic floating neighborhood unlike anywhere else.  Many of the homes have gardens in pots, sculptures, and colorful exteriors that give the docks a whimsical feel.

Some of you may recognize the boats from the recent TV thriller The Last Thing He Told Me, starring Jennifer Garner.

    Here is the home where Jennifer Garner lived in The Last Thing He Told Me.

    It seems to us that it might not be necessarily smart to eat even those fish with less chemicals.

    Mission San Francisco Solano, Sonoma, California, USA

    June 23, 2026

    As our regular readers will know, we are on a quest to visit all of the historic missions in California. Mission San Francisco Solano was the last of the 21 missions to be built. It is also the farthest north and was founded in 1823, two years after Mexico gained its independence. Consequently, it is the only mission to be established by Mexico rather than Spain. The mission only operated for 11 years because Mexico started closing the missions in 1833. In a process called secularization, the church portion of the missions were kept operating, albeit by Mexican rather than Spanish priests, while the vast lands of the missions were taken from the Church and distributed to local inhabitants. Half of the lands were supposed to go to the local indigenous people, but we are sure to no one’s great surprise, most ended up in the hands of the local rancheros.

    Unlike the other missions we have visited, Mission San Francisco Solano is not owned and operated by the Catholic Church. Rather, it is managed by California State Parks as part of Sonoma State Historic Park. It is a museum rather than an active parish. It also appears less cared for than the other missions but, nevertheless, was one of the favorites that we have visited.

    St. Helena and Yountville, California, USA

    June 22, 2026

    Driving through Napa Valley we passed numerous wineries. They were built in a variety of styles. Many looked as if they would be at home in France or Italy or Spain. Some were modern. But they were all immaculate and tidy as the rows of grapes surrounding them.

    We stopped briefly in St. Helena for a quick look around.

    Before moving on to our final stop of the day, Yountville. It is a pretty little town with charming buildings and colorful rose gardens.

    There was even a mushroom garden outside the local post office.

    But the village is mainly known for is its many outstanding restaurants, including the celebrated French Laundry.

    From the outside, The French Laundry doesn’t look all that special. The building dates to around 1900 and used to be the home of a French steam laundry, hence the name. But the restaurant has had three Michelin stars for many years and is consistently ranked among the world’s best restaurants. Three stars are the highest Michelin rating. There are only 157 restaurants in the world with three stars and just 14 in the United States. Many of the vegetables and herbs used by The French Laundry come from the three acre culinary garden right across the road.

    Deciding to save the several hundred dollars per person it costs to eat at The French Laundry, we ate under the olive trees in the beautiful courtyard of nearby Clementine.

    Calistoga, California, USA

    June 22, 2026

    Next stop on our California tour was Napa Valley, home to over 400 wineries. Neither of us are wine people, so why Christopher and Carla headed out to various vineyards for tastings, we explored the local towns. First up was Calistoga. The town is known for its geothermal pools and volcanic ash mud treatments so we headed to Golden Haven Hot Springs to try out our very first mud bath. It was strangely relaxing and disgusting both at the same time.

    After we went for a stroll along the town’s Main Street.

    The old train depot had been transformed into a brewery and distillery and some train carriages had been turned into restaurants, including a particularly beautiful Mexican restaurant.

    Groveland, California, USA

    June 21, 2026

    Good question. Where indeed is Groveland? It is, in fact, a small historic town just outside Yosemite National Park. It was originally a gold mining camp, known as Garrote (execution by strangling). According to local tradition, the name came after a suspected thief was lynched by being strangled with a rope—a grim example of the frontier justice that was common in some Gold Rush towns. As the settlement became more established, residents felt the name was too violent and changed it to Groveland in 1875. It is now a quaint little western town and home to the Iron Door Saloon. Established in 1852, it is claimed to be the oldest continuing running saloon in California.

    Now that the town’s wild days are behind it, the jail is now the home of the local gardening club.

    The Groveland Hotel has been beautifully restored and is now on the National Register of Historic Places.

    Here are some of the other historic buildings on the Main Street.

    But Groveland is not just stuck in the past, as evidenced by the fact that it has charging stations for both Rivians and Teslas.

    Mariposa Grove, Yosemite, California, USA

    June 20, 2026

    Mariposa Grove is the largest grove of giant sequoias in Yosemite and is home to more than 500 mature trees, many of which are over 2,000 years old. They are the largest species of tree by volume, meaning no other tree species in the world contains as much wood in a single trunk.

    Their bark can be up to 2 feet thick which protects them from heat and fires. In 2022 a fire that started near the bottom of the grove burned about 5000 acres but because of decades of forest management and an intensive fire fighting effort none of the mature giant sequoias were lost. Many do however have blackened trunks. In fact, sequoias commonly carry fire scars for centuries while they continue to grow.

    The Grizzly Giant is estimated to be around 3,000 years old and is among the world’s largest sequoias.

    The California Tunnel Tree is a living tree with a man-made tunnel carved through its trunk in 1895.

    Tioga Road, Yosemite, California, USA

    June 20, 2026

    Yosemite is notorious for the crowds it attracts in summer. Having faced ever-increasing crowds the day before, we decided to go for a drive along Tioga Road, a spectacular mountain road which is still in the Park but farther away from the maddening crowds.

    Our first stop was Olmsted Point. The overlook is named for American landscape architects, Frederick Law Olmsted and his son Frederick Law Olmsted Jr., who were influential figures in American conservation and park planning. The exposed granite, polished rock surfaces, and broad views back toward Half Dome make it a very beautiful place to stop.

    Next stop was Tenaya Lake, named after Chief Tenaya, a leader of the Ahwahneechee people who lived in the Yosemite valley. Carved by glacial activity during the Ice Age, its crystal clear waters and sandy shores make if a perfect spot for a picnic and swim.

    Or final stop was Tuolumne Meadows, a vast subalpine meadow at about 8,600 feet (2,620 meters) above sea level.

    Yosemite Valley, Yosemite National Park, California, USA

    June 19, 2026

    Yosemite National Park is one of those rare places (like The Grand Canyon and Milford Sound) that, despite the hype, actually exceed expectations. We weren’t surprised that it has been named the most beautiful place in California.

    In 1864, the United States Congress passed legislation that was signed by President Abraham Lincoln creating the Yosemite Grant. It was the first time that land had been set aside specifically for preservation and public use by the U.S. Government and set a precedent for the 1872 creation of Yellowstone National Park, the nation’s first.

    Interestingly, the indigenous Ahwahneechee people who lived at Yosemite actually called it Ahwahnee meaning “big mouth” probably describing the big open shape of the Yosemite valley. The name Yosemite is believed to come from a term used by the neighboring Milwok people to refer to the Ahwahneechee and has been translated to mean “those who kill”, likely referencing their fierce reputation.

    We spent two idyllic days exploring the park with our nephew Christopher and his better half, Carla. The first iconic site we saw on entering the valley was El Capitan, perhaps the world’s most famous climbing wall. It rises straight up for about 3,000 feet (914 meters). In 2017, Alex Honnold became the first person to climb it without ropes, an achievement captured in the Oscar-winning documentary Free Solo. It is one of the most terrifying things we have seen on film. Unfortunately, the photos don’t do justice to just how immense it is.

    There are many beautiful walks in the valley, some ending in dramatic waterfalls.

    We were reminded of Woody Woodpecker from the cartoon of our childhood watching these two woodpeckers go to work on a tree.