Mal and Lauren

April 1, 2023

We have heard it said that visiting Great Barrier is like going back In time. It certainly did remind us of New Zealand from forty years back when times were simpler. It is the kind of place where approaching drivers give a friendly wave as they pass you by. Although it is one of New Zealand’s largest islands at 285 square kilometers (110 square miles) it is sparsely inhabited with approximately a thousand permanent residents. Many of those have moved there to get away from it all. There is no grid on the island with all electricity having to be self-generated. Consequently, there are lots of solar panels on display. It is also exceedingly beautiful with an abundance of pristine native forest (bush), wetlands, and beaches.

Among the island’s residents are many artists and craftspeople. We dropped by the Schoal Bay Pottery studio for a visit and, particularly, liked its quirky bathroom and tiny kitchen.

We bought a couple of coffee mugs. No one was around to pay, but like other studios we visited on the island, the honor system was in place, relying on purchasers to pay for their goods by making bank transfers later on.

There are 87 steps up to Annette and Neil’s bach. The view makes the climb well worth it.

Especially, during the sunset.

March 31, 2023

Great Barrier Island lies in the outer Hauraki Gulf, about 61 miles (100 kms) from Auckland. Neither of us had ever been there, so when our cousin, Annette, asked us to come stay at her bach, we leapt on the opportunity. The island is a long ferry ride or a short plane ride from Auckland. We took the later option. The planes are small, carrying less than 20 passengers. We were seated right behind the pilot which gave us a Birds Eye view of proceedings.

There were some beautiful views along the way. We flew right over Waiheke Island.

It was a beautiful evening, leaving the pilot with little to do except check his phone for new messages.

He did spring into action when it came time to land.

Safe and sound on the ground.

March 30, 2023

There are fourteen ancestral mountains of Auckland (Tupuna Maunga o Tamaki Makaurau). They are the volcanic cones that hold the greatest historical, spiritual, ancestral and cultural significance to the local Maori iwi (tribes). So far, we have climbed twelve of them, including Mt. Richmond, today’s summit. It is apparently named for a local mayor from the 1840s. Its Maori name is Otahuhu which references the leader of one of the canoes of the great Maori fleet that came to New Zealand in the 1300s.

Perhaps, because it sits in the middle of an industrial area, it was not as well kept as the other Maunga that we have climbed. Nor were the views quite as breathtaking.

March 23, 2023

On what felt like the first Autumn day of the year, with clear blue skies and a slight chill in the air, we went for a walk through the streets of Grey Lynn. We dropped in at our friend Kris’s store, Pearl. Lauren took a break from the walk to try on some clothes. As we have said before on this blog, Kris designs and makes Auckland’s most beautiful women’s clothing and she is currently having a sale, so head on over.

From Pearl we continued our walk through the neighborhood, which consists mainly of old villas and cottages.

It’s always important for your car to match your house

With its native flax and toe toes (a type of tall grass), this home had a decidedly beach feel.

Having walked up and down a number of hills we sought refreshment at the New Leaf kombucha tap room. We sampled a number of their different kombuchas. They were all amazing but our favorites were the Hopbucha (which included hops in the brew and consequently had a decidedly beer flavor) and the Iron Goddess (which had hints of pear). All of the kombuchas are brewed on the premises using natural ingredients and include no added sugars or flavorings. They are also alcohol and caffeine free.

Today we passed not just one but two classic cars. This hot pink toyota

And this Ford Fairlane.

March 20, 2023

We returned to the streets of Westmere and this time we had a guide, with our cousin and neighborhood resident, Annette, joining us. There is quite a diversity of housing in Westmere with many new residences springing up among the original homes. Here are some examples.

One of the more original homes we came across appeared to be a converted church.

One of the neighborhood’s great assets is Cox’s Bay Reserve, which includes sports fields and a creek area with native vegetation, mangroves and an environmental trail.

There were signs of the recent flooding and cyclone, including this massive upended tree.

The neighborhood sits on the edge of the Cox’s Bay and some of the homes have amazing views.

Today’s classic car is another Citroen. This time it’s a Citroen BX from the 1980s.

March 18, 2023

The suburbs on the north side of Auckland, across the harbor bridge, are collectively called The North Shore or just The Shore. On a warm sunny day we decided to go for a drive over the bridge and go for a walk along Narrow Neck, one of the beautiful beaches that line the coastline. Once again, we were reminded how lucky Aucklanders are to have so many amazing beaches so close at hand.

March 16, 2023

Next on our list of volcanic peaks to climb was Big King. The neighborhood surrounding Big King is called Three Kings, as the volcano originally had three peaks. The other two have been quarried for scoria so now only Big King, originally the second highest peak, remains. The name Three Kings comes from the Bible’s Three Wise Men who bore gifts to the baby Jesus. In Maori, the peak is called Te Tatua O Riukiuta which translates as The War Belt of Riukiuta. Riukiuta was a senior priest of the Tainui confederation of Maori tribes.

It is not one of highest peaks but is quite steep. Fortunately, there were steps on the steepest parts.

As we have mentioned in prior posts, the city has taken advantage of the height of the volcanic peaks in Auckland by excavating water storage tanks into many of their summits. Big King is the first peak that we have climbed where the tank actually stands on top of the summit.

On the side of the tank was a painting of Dog from the classic New Zealand comic strip, Footrot Flats, by Murray Ball. The strip, that ran from 1976 to 1994, followed the adventures of a sheepdog, known only as Dog, and his farmer owner Wal Foxtrot. Think Snoopy, but on a New Zealand farm.

Here is the view from the top, looking toward Mt. Eden and the city beyond.

In the 1930s and 1940s, thousands of detached two and three bedroom, cottage-style, houses were built throughout New Zealand to provide housing for low income families. Known locally as state houses, they have a reputation as being well-built and many are now privately owned.

It’s interesting to contrast the state houses with the terrace homes currently being built alongside the mountain. It is hard to imagine them standing the test of time as well as the state houses have.

March 14, 2023

Continuing our climbs of Auckland’s volcanic peaks, we caught the ferry over to Devonport where we summited Mt. Victoria, named for the British Queen. Its Maori name is Takarunga, meaning “The Hill Standing Above”. An important pa (fortified village) once occupied its slopes. In 1841, a signal station was constructed on its peak to better facilitate traffic to the Port of Auckland and in 1895, a gun fort was added. The fort was in use until after World War II and the signal station is still active.

Like many of Auckland’s volcanic peaks, Mt. Victoria is the home of a water reservoir that was dug into the top. It is only visible by the vents that sit above it and resemble a field of cartoon mushrooms.

With its commanding views of the surrounding harbour, it is easy to see why Mt. Victoria was chosen as a place to build a signal station and fort.

The walk down the mountain is very pretty, through the shady trees.

Perched about halfway up the mountain is a beautiful old villa that was built in 1898, to house the signalman. Today, the Michael King Writer’s Center offers up residence in the home, along with a stipend, to up to fifteen writers a year, enabling them to retreat to the home and work on writing projects. Michael King is perhaps New Zealand’s best known historian. He wrote over thirty books on New Zealand topics, including the bestselling Penguin History of New Zealand. Tragically, he died in 2004, at the peak of his career, in a car crash.

This beautiful old Citroen is the classic car of the day.

March 11, 2023

Gibbs Farm is about an hour’s drive north of Auckland on the shores of Kaipara Harbour. It is a beautiful farm but what makes it incredibly special is the collection of massive sculpture that Alan Gibbs, one of New Zealand’s wealthiest people, has acquired for the property. The farm is only open to public a few times a year. If you have the opportunity to visit, then we highly recommend you do. And if sculpture isn’t your thing, then there is also the diverse collection of exotic animals to view, including giraffes, bison, and ostriches.

February 9, 2023

Our good friend, John, guided us on a tour through his neighborhood of Grey Lynn. Most of the houses in the neighborhood were built between the 1800s and the beginning of the First World War. They were constructed quickly and with little variation of layout as can be seen in this early photograph of Grey Lynn that we came upon on a local fence.

Today, there are many more trees lining the streets but most of the original houses remain. Although the houses differed little in layout, they are differentiated by the application of mass produced items such as wooden fretwork. Many also have bay windows, which at the time marked the owner as a member of the middle class. Here are some examples.

One of the joys of walking in the city is the things you come across that you don’t often notice driving by. For example, we came across this pottery studio, tucked into one of the side streets, where we were greeted by two friendly dogs and an apprentice working on some pottery.

The classic car of the day was this beautiful Hillman Minx convertible.

The Royal New Zealand Returned and Services Association, known locally as the RSA, was founded after World War One by soldiers returning from the Gallipoli Campaign. There are over 180 local RSAs throughout New Zealand and their club houses are a common sight, even in the smallest towns. But we have not seen any as impressive as the Grey Lynn club house with its extensive mural, depicting New Zealand military history.