Mal and Lauren

May 25, 2023

Clarksdale is a small town in the heart of the Mississippi delta. We were there to celebrate the wedding of Joe, a dear friend of our family. The town has been in decline for much of the twentieth and twenty first centuries. Particularly devastating was the invention in the 1940s of automated cotton picking machinery. Many of the town’s black population who worked at sharecroppers immediately lost their means of support and joined the Great Migration north to St. Louis and Chicago. Those that remained faced brutal racism and the town played an important role in the Civil Rights movement. Martin Luther King, Jr. visited the town a number of times, most notably in 1958 when he attended the first major meeting of the Southern Christian Leadership Conference (SCLC). Another prominent Civil Rights leader, Aaron Henry, worked in the town as a pharmacist. In 1960, he was named state president of the NAACP, and went on to organize a two-year-long boycott of Clarksdale businesses that discriminated against black customers and employees.

Interestingly, the town was once also home to one of the largest Jewish populations in the state, but they also began to leave as the town declined. The Beth Israel Synagogue that the built in the 1930s remains, but is now an AirBnB.

Today, the town’s economy depends primarily on tourism generated by its claim as the home of the Delta Blues. Many famous black musicians came from the town and its surroundings. Sam Cooke, John Lee Hooker and Ike Turner were all born there. Famous bluesmen, Muddy Waters and Robert Johnson both lived in Clarksdale. In fact, just outside the town is the crossroads where Johnson famously sold his soul to the Devil. Under the legend, Johnson had a tremendous desire to become a great blues musician. He was told to go a nearby crossroads at midnight. There he was met by a large black man (the Devil) who took Johnson’s guitar and tuned it. The Devil played a few songs and then returned the guitar to Johnson, giving him mastery of the instrument. Johnson died in 1938 at the age of 27. It is unclear how he died although local legend holds that he was poisoned by the jealous husband of a woman with whom Johnson was flirting in a bar. The exact location of Johnson’s gravesite is also unknown and there are, in fact, three different gravesites at three different cemeteries all claiming to be his final resting site.

Here are some photos from our first afternoon and evening exploring the streets of Clarksdale.

April 23, 2023

Today, we walked around the Auckland suburb of Remuera, where we lived for three years during the eighties. When it was developed, the neighborhood consisted of large homes on quarter and half acre sections. The size of the sections allowed owners later on to subdivide their lots, building second and sometimes third or fourth homes on the original lot. This infill housing has taken away some of the original charm of the neighborhood but it still remains one of Auckland’s most sought after addresses. Here are some of the original and new homes we passed by during the walk.

When we first moved to Auckland, we lived in this house that Mal’s sister and brother-in-law had just bought and were about to renovate.

From there we moved to a small one bedroom apartment. It was under rent control and cost us $26 a week. The building and the home it connected to have since been pulled down and replaced by these much more upscale homes.

A friend visiting from the United States once commented that Auckland is not so much a city as a series of small towns. Case in point are the shops along Remuera Road that very much seem like Main Street of a small American town.

We also stopped by the shops at the top of our street, where we would often walk to and pick up provisions. Often, we were accompanied by our cat, Salinger. Sadly, Salinger moved on years ago, The shops, however, were still there and had not changed much in the ensuing forty years.

When we lived in Remuera, we had a small Fiat Bambina. It had a 500 cc engine and was not much bigger and not much more powerful than a sewing machine. In fact, on some of the steeper streets, one of us would have to get out and walk up the hill, so the car could make it. On the plus side, it did have a sun roof, so you could stand up and look about.

The updated version we passed, did not look as if it would have the same trouble getting up hills.

Speaking of toy cars, this Land Rover definitely looked like it would be at home in a children’s book.

The suburb runs down to Hobson Bay where we went for a walk along the boardwalk that crosses the mud flats and marsh land.

April 4, 2023

We decided to start our last day on the island like we had started the rest, with a hike. Once again, some uphill climbing was required and once again the view made it all worthwhile.

With some time to spare before our flight back to the mainland, we headed to Medlands beach for once last swim. The beach is split in two by a rock formation that includes a beautiful rock pool. We went for a swim, joined by a friendly octopus, that for some reason took a particular liking to Annette’s toes which he grabbed on to. It must have been her recent pedicure.

Then, sadly it was back to the airport for our return to Auckland. Thanks to Neil and Annette for showing us around Barrier. It really is a special place.

April 3, 2023

We started the day with a walk up Windy Canyon, which lived up to its name and required hands on hats. Fortunately, we had been in training going up and down the steps to Annette and Neil’s bach, so were ready for the seemingly endless steps that had been built along the trail.

The view from the top was spectacular.

The walk down was much easier.

Afterwards, we went for a stroll along another spectacular Barrier beach, where the surf was up.

We were all in agreement that there would be worse places to live than this home, the only bach on the whole long beach.

Having worked up an appetite, we stopped off for lunch at ‘my fat puku’ cafe. Puku is Maori for belly. Next door to the cafe were the studios of Aotea FM, the local radio station. While driving around the island, we enjoyed listening to Barrier’s radio station. It is a throwback to the old local stations, where the only programming appears to be whatever the DJ feels like playing. One minute, you’re listening to deep house and the next minute heavy metal. There were also plenty of oldies in the rotation. Aotea, by the way, is the Maori name for Great Barrier, and means White Cloud, which we expect has much to do with the clouds that hang around the island’s peaks. It should not be confused with Aotearoa, the Maori name for New Zealand, which means Land of the Long White Cloud.

After lunch, we visited the island’s museum. We couldn’t help thinking of our dear friend, Sally, who has never met a museum, no matter how small or obscure, that she didn’t find worthy of a visit.

You know that you’re getting old when the washing machine in the museum is the same one that you remember from the home you lived in during your university years.

April 2, 2023

On a misty day, we walked through some beautiful wetlands and up through the bush before coming to the Kaitoke hot springs. Thermal activity heats the water running down a small stream and creates small hot pools along its path. The pool we bathed in was almost too hot to get into. Lauren had finally found New Zealand water warm enough to enjoy, having steadfastly avoided the cold ocean water.

Walking along the path, we came across a number of silver ferns, which have become a symbol of New Zealand. Rugby fans will have noticed them on the uniforms of the All Blacks, New Zealand’s iconic rugby team. The ferns are actually only silver on the bottom of the fronds.

April 1, 2023

We have heard it said that visiting Great Barrier is like going back In time. It certainly did remind us of New Zealand from forty years back when times were simpler. It is the kind of place where approaching drivers give a friendly wave as they pass you by. Although it is one of New Zealand’s largest islands at 285 square kilometers (110 square miles) it is sparsely inhabited with approximately a thousand permanent residents. Many of those have moved there to get away from it all. There is no grid on the island with all electricity having to be self-generated. Consequently, there are lots of solar panels on display. It is also exceedingly beautiful with an abundance of pristine native forest (bush), wetlands, and beaches.

Among the island’s residents are many artists and craftspeople. We dropped by the Schoal Bay Pottery studio for a visit and, particularly, liked its quirky bathroom and tiny kitchen.

We bought a couple of coffee mugs. No one was around to pay, but like other studios we visited on the island, the honor system was in place, relying on purchasers to pay for their goods by making bank transfers later on.

There are 87 steps up to Annette and Neil’s bach. The view makes the climb well worth it.

Especially, during the sunset.

March 31, 2023

Great Barrier Island lies in the outer Hauraki Gulf, about 61 miles (100 kms) from Auckland. Neither of us had ever been there, so when our cousin, Annette, asked us to come stay at her bach, we leapt on the opportunity. The island is a long ferry ride or a short plane ride from Auckland. We took the later option. The planes are small, carrying less than 20 passengers. We were seated right behind the pilot which gave us a Birds Eye view of proceedings.

There were some beautiful views along the way. We flew right over Waiheke Island.

It was a beautiful evening, leaving the pilot with little to do except check his phone for new messages.

He did spring into action when it came time to land.

Safe and sound on the ground.

March 30, 2023

There are fourteen ancestral mountains of Auckland (Tupuna Maunga o Tamaki Makaurau). They are the volcanic cones that hold the greatest historical, spiritual, ancestral and cultural significance to the local Maori iwi (tribes). So far, we have climbed twelve of them, including Mt. Richmond, today’s summit. It is apparently named for a local mayor from the 1840s. Its Maori name is Otahuhu which references the leader of one of the canoes of the great Maori fleet that came to New Zealand in the 1300s.

Perhaps, because it sits in the middle of an industrial area, it was not as well kept as the other Maunga that we have climbed. Nor were the views quite as breathtaking.

March 23, 2023

On what felt like the first Autumn day of the year, with clear blue skies and a slight chill in the air, we went for a walk through the streets of Grey Lynn. We dropped in at our friend Kris’s store, Pearl. Lauren took a break from the walk to try on some clothes. As we have said before on this blog, Kris designs and makes Auckland’s most beautiful women’s clothing and she is currently having a sale, so head on over.

From Pearl we continued our walk through the neighborhood, which consists mainly of old villas and cottages.

It’s always important for your car to match your house

With its native flax and toe toes (a type of tall grass), this home had a decidedly beach feel.

Having walked up and down a number of hills we sought refreshment at the New Leaf kombucha tap room. We sampled a number of their different kombuchas. They were all amazing but our favorites were the Hopbucha (which included hops in the brew and consequently had a decidedly beer flavor) and the Iron Goddess (which had hints of pear). All of the kombuchas are brewed on the premises using natural ingredients and include no added sugars or flavorings. They are also alcohol and caffeine free.

Today we passed not just one but two classic cars. This hot pink toyota

And this Ford Fairlane.

March 20, 2023

We returned to the streets of Westmere and this time we had a guide, with our cousin and neighborhood resident, Annette, joining us. There is quite a diversity of housing in Westmere with many new residences springing up among the original homes. Here are some examples.

One of the more original homes we came across appeared to be a converted church.

One of the neighborhood’s great assets is Cox’s Bay Reserve, which includes sports fields and a creek area with native vegetation, mangroves and an environmental trail.

There were signs of the recent flooding and cyclone, including this massive upended tree.

The neighborhood sits on the edge of the Cox’s Bay and some of the homes have amazing views.

Today’s classic car is another Citroen. This time it’s a Citroen BX from the 1980s.